Tangier Island - We were "off the grid" (no internet)

I have some catching up to do! We’ve been “off the grid” (no Verizon service – so no phone/internet) since we left mainland Virginia for Tangier Island, in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay.

But before I describe Tangier Island, I’ll back track to where we last left off a few days ago …. motoring in circles around a “fish boil” and failing in our attempt to catch any fish L.

We had to satisfy ourselves the following day (Wednesday), back in a previously visited anchorage in Smith’s Creek off the Potomac River, with picking oysters, as it seemed the only seafood we were capable of getting for ourselves. That we did well; though it cost me my back for a day (stooped over too long cleaning them).

We left Smith’s Creek on the northern Maryland side of the Potomac and sailed, under a sunny sky, to Smith’s Point at the southern tip on the Virginia side of the Potomac.

the view I had while on my back - not so bad

The Little Wicomico River empties into the Chesapeake here, through a rather narrow and fast flowing channel which is prone to shoaling. We knew it might be a bit tricky, as the guidebook said: “A visit is well worth the effort if you draw less than 4.5 feet.” We draw 4’ 10” (maybe a bit more fully loaded).  We didn’t expect to also have to maneuver through a fleet of fishing boats between the channels’ jetties. I think they were as surprised by us as we were of them, as they reeled in to protect their lines. 

fishing boats++ in the channel at Smith's Point

We got through it to a pretty anchorage. Then, as luck would have it, Gil finally got his first rockfish! 

 Gil's Catch of the Day

Dinner was Oysters Rockefeller and pan fried rockfish J

Thursday, we got out of that tricky channel, and had an exhilarating sail, close reached, one tack, at 6 knots all the way to Tangier Island.

Captain Gil at the helm

making good speed at 6 knots

Smith Point Lighthouse 

2 1/2 miles from shore

recently renovated as a four bedroom house

Tangier Island is such a unique little island. It’s at the heart of the Chesapeake’s Blue Crab fishery, and supports a community of watermen and their families. Lining the channel into Tangier Is. are crab shanties, all sitting out of the water on pilings, and with their own docks…. so picturesque. These crab houses are used to hold 'ripe' crabs (those that are about to molt) until they shed their shells, as soft crabs demand a higher price than hard crabs.

We arrived near high tide, so the road from the marina into town was partially submerged! Mr. Parks, the octogenarian who owned and operated Parks’ Marina, advised that we wait until low tide to go into town, but we chose to put on our boots instead J. It's worth going to Tangiers just to meet him - he is such a character! "Sometimes us old folks, we forget to consult ourselves before we open our mouths."
"At my age, more gets around my mouth, than in it." I wish I could remember more of his lines...

Milton Parks at 82yr., refinishing woodwork on his crab boat (pictured) ... and driving his 

motor bike ON his docks as he helps transient boaters dock at his marina

 crab pots

Jim, I hope your project is advancing better than this one!

trash containers modeled after their lighthouse

Margaret ... a Long & Foster listing!

crabbie deck chairs

The island has a population of about 500 (though I swear there are more dead than alive here), and has only 18 vehicles. Most get around on gulf ‘buggies’ (as they call them) or bikes. The streets are wide enough for two gulf buggies, or one vehicle. 

The Tangier Island family car

gulf buggies parked up on the dock to keep them dry!

The island is essentially at sea level. “Up on the hill” is where the land is dry at both low and high tide! No kidding – it was all very flat by my reckoning.

 they kept their loved ones very close

"higher ground near a home was less likely to result in a casket
being floated to the surface by rising tides"

conch pots

'mini me' driveway for the golf buggie, beside their loved ones

too much draft and not enough freeboard

While we were there, two familiar boats arrived: Cloud 9 (Dave & Rose) and Krazy Lady (Ann). What a nice surprise that was. We all got together for happy hour, then shared a dinner of Oysters Rockefeller (me) and Crab Cakes (Rose). All this time, the fish could be heard jumping  around us. Gil & Dave could not sit idly by – so out came the rods, and they were each rewarded with a rockfish. The following day (Friday) the guys tried their luck at crabbing, and came home with enough to share. Gil also caught yet another rockfish. So we had a progressive seafood dinner party on Friday, with the last of our oysters, and the crabs and rockfish caught by the guys.

I was so happy to delegate this task :-)

Thanks Ann (above) and Rose (below)!

The rising moon and the setting sun over Tangier Island

Saturday, we chose to set sail once again. Cloud 9 & Krazy Lady chose to stay at Tangiers Island another day or two. The winds were favourable, coming from the east at 10-12 knots, for us to sail southwest back to the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay.

Captain Gil at the helm

 just try making lunch in this kitchen (I did)

notice the horizon, as viewed through the bimini!

We had a good sail (except for some rain), close reached on one tack again, at 5-6 knots, and arrived on the south side of Deltaville to anchor. 

sorry about the camera angle ... obviously I'm not supposed to take video with the camera on its' side