Wednesday, March 11, 2015

Quiet Time in Guadeloupe


It's been quiet for the two of us in Guadeloupe. 

approaching the island of Guadeloupe

We arrived over two weeks ago, but had to lay low as Gil recuperated from a bad eye infection. He had seen an opthamologist on the island of Dominica, but the infection worsened despite the prescribed treatment. We were fortunate enough to get in to see another opthamologist here in Guadeloupe on the day of our arrival, and Gil's eye has responded well to her prescribed regimen of medications. She was very good and saw Gil twice more for follow-up visits. His eye was so light sensitive that Gil was wearing his shades inside the boat!

We got to know the city of Basse Terre fairly well. The walk from the anchorage by the Marina Riviere Sens into Basse Terre followed a beautiful waterfront walkway with elegant lampposts and a line of palm trees.

waterfront walkway into Basse Terre

Fort Louis Delgies sits above the waterfront walkway

sculpture at the market area

sculpture at the bus terminal

chickens up in a tree by the post office

There was a Center for Marine Activities on the small beach in front of our anchorage. It was very active! Everyday there were kayakers, windsurfers and day sailors around us. 

 young sailors racing each other

heading home 

After the opthamologist was satisfied that Gil's eye would return to health and she felt she did not need to see him again; we chose to move further north up Guadeloupe's west coast to Pigeon Island. 

The Cousteau Underwater Park is the main attraction here, and the snorkeling was exceptional. Turtles were easily spotted and accepting of our presence. I saw my first spotted drum fish and my first Nassau Grouper. I got spooked by a Great Barracuda who came from behind me and swam directly underneath me! The corals and sea plants were amazing. 

I was grateful to be here, because we weren't leaving Guadeloupe anytime soon. "March comes in like a lion..."   ....the winds were howling! At night, I could hear the howl even through my ear plugs. There were white caps on the water even close in to shore. 

the winds howled day after day

It was great weather for the kite surfers.

this lady was my age!

so fun to watch these guys

 kite surfers lined the beach

We rented a car for a day to tour the island. Gil usually does the driving, but because his eye was still being treated, I got the wheel ;-)  I hadn't driven a car since we left home 1 1/2 years ago, and  I couldn't remember the last time I'd driven a standard transmission ... and we were driving through the mountains and rain forests of the Guadeloupe National Park (steep grades and switchbacks). I think Gil may have preferred sailing in these brisk conditions, to driving with his wife behind the wheel! We visited Crayfish Falls and a couple of beaches, and drove along the southern shores of both Basse Terre and Grand Terre.

Crayfish Falls

ditto

St. Anne's beach

Gil 'just saying 'Hi'

After our stay at Pigeon Island, we headed to Guadeloupe's most northern anchorage at Deshaies. 

Deshaies

We visited Deshaies' Botanical Gardens. There is a walk in avairy with the most colourful little birds, in addition to the many tropical flowers, cacti and trees.


mating dance?



Deshaies' Botanical Gardens


wild orchids

I didn't know they grow in the trees

very unique flower!




cacti

I'd have called these 'touch me nots'





We made a return visit to Grande Anse Beach (...every island seems to have a 'Grande Anse'), a short walk around the headland. A couple of kids had what looked like sand tobaggans....




Guadeloupe's Grande Anse beach 

yum!  'ice cream made on the beach

 very interesting playground equipment

The winds are forecast to finally lighten up for us this coming Monday, and we are planning to make our way to Antigua from here. We are looking forward to sailing again....








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