one of several switch backs on the trail
(Fresh Water Lake is below us in the background)
Yesterday, we completed the hike we abandoned a couple of
days ago, both because of a late start and a memorable bus trip (story on the
last blog post).
Jaro & Vivian
Along with Jaro & Vivian, a very fit French Canadian
couple, we chose to go to Fresh Water Lake. The guide books described it as an
easy 1 hour hike, and as Gil’s back was only recently feeling better, we did
not want to push our luck with anything too strenuous. Though this lake is high,
most of the climbing would be accomplished by the city bus.
The bus experience deserves mention. On our way to the bus
stop, we were taken aside by the driver of another bus/route. After greeting
him and chatting with him for a short while, we explained that we were walking
up to the bus stop for Laudat. He then informed us that bus wasn’t leaving
until 1pm (it was 10:30am), but he could take us near enough that we could
hitch hike the remainder of the distance, or he could take us directly there
for a taxi fare (triple the charge). Politely, we told him we’d walk the two
blocks further to the Laudat bus stop; but that he might shortly see us back to
take up one of his offers. That was when he presented a convincing argument
about how as Canadians we knew our country; and how as a Dominican born and
raised, he knew his town and country…. yada yada yada. We still chose to walk
two more blocks, and guess what? There was a bus there ready to go to Laudat!
We jumped aboard and were driven almost directly there, with perhaps only a
couple of other stops during the 1/2hr. ride, for 5EC ($2 US) each. Jeez.
Though Laudat is Dominica’s highest town, Fresh Water Lake
was still higher. The walk there was entirely on road. We hadn’t expected that.
The views were great – of the mountain peaks, the valleys, and both the
Atlantic and Caribbean waters.
we climbed this far mainly by bus, but partially on foot
Fresh Water Lake, the largest of Dominica’s lakes, is over
2800’ above sea level, and lies at the center of an old volcano. It is the
source of Rosseau’s water. We stopped for a look at it and a short rest.
Ahhh.... a bench!
...and a view of Fresh Water Lake
There was a trailhead near for Boeri Lake, Dominica’s
highest lake. This trail was what we had expected and looked forward to –
trekking through the forest on dirt and rock paths; and so we chose to continue
on….
the trek UP to Boeri Lake
(this was no stairway to heaven!)
Both Fresh Water Lake and Boeri Lake are volcanic crater
lakes within the Morne Trois Pitons National Park, which is a world UNESCO
heritage site. The trek (it wasn’t a walk anymore) UP to Boeri Lake took us
through Elfin Woodland, where the trees are stunted and the ground is often
covered with moss.
We passed by
some bamboo water pipes which channeled water from a hot source.
bamboo water pipes channeling warm water
warm water stream
We walked
along an unseen (underground? or buried below vegetation?) stream that could
only be heard; and we crossed over several streams....
one of several stream crossings
....until finally we reached
the lake. It felt so good to stop and lunch! I was thankful for the extra food the guys gathered on the
walk up – several grapefruits picked up from the side of the road J
Vivian, Jaro & Gil
Boeri Lake, Dominica's highest
The trek back down seemed quicker....
I couldn't resist the temptation
Gil's back was tested, as we'd hiked farther and longer than originally planned, but it passed! We are trying to work ourselves up to doing the Boiling Lake hike, which is arduous and long. We want to see it, but are wavering about attempting it. Time will tell.
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