Life Aboard SERENADA: “Waiting for Weather” in Falmouth Harbour

moon setting early morning, leaving Guadeloupe

Early morning of Dec.15^th we raised the anchor and set sail from Deshaies, Guadeloupe for the island of Antigua. We watched the sun rise and the moon set, and had yet another great sail this season.

the squalls missed us on our sail to Antigua

We arrived mid afternoon in English Bay; but found it too crowded to stay, and moved next door to Falmouth Harbour.

moon rise over Falmouth Harbour

In the light of the full moon, the luxury and mega yachts docked in Falmouth Harbour, gave it the appearance of a city skyline! Count those red masthead lights! Typically masthead lights are white, but if they’re tall enough, red seems to be the colour of choice (for aircraft?).

Falmouth Harbour is yacht heaven…. so many classic, luxury and mega yachts; some at anchor, and many at the dock. Gil & I happened to drop our anchor between the channel and Pigeon Beach; close enough to watch the daily comings and goings of these beautiful ships, from the comfort of our cockpit.

Koo, 43 metres, 8 guests

Symphony, 101m, 20 guests, over $1,000,000/wk. to charter

notice the heli pad on its' bow

Illusion V, 58 metres, 12 guests

Rosehearty, 56m, 12 guests and Germania, 60m

2 men (barely noticed) stuffing the sail into the boom

Sweet Emotion, 25m

Serenada, 10m and Germania, 60m (largest in photo)

As impressive as these many yachts are, I was even more impressed by this boat, and her young crew...

28 ft. with 3 twenty somethings crewing

They arrived here from Las Palmas in the Canary Islands! In tact and undamaged.

The weather, in our judgement, has turned ‘heavy;’ the winds have strengthened, the seas are bigger, and there’s been passing squalls. We’ve chosen to stay put in the safety of Falmouth Harbour, essentially a hurricane hole – surrounded by land and reefs except for it’s small opening. It’s funny that family and friends see us as adventurous; yet we feel like staid old seniors next to these kids! It’s all relative J

We’ve been quite content to stay put and just chill out here, “waiting for weather,” especially when we see boats arriving with their sails blown out.

On Christmas Eve, while Gil & I were having our morning coffees, I heard a VHF CH16 radio transmission: “Antigua Coast Guard, Antigua Coast Guard, this is Sailing Vessel Freebird, Freebird.” It was repeated a couple of times, without any response from the Coast Guard. Later, another transmission: “Freebird, Freebird requesting radio check.” Again, no response from anyone; so I answered simply “Clear.” Then, his next transmission: “Vessel answering radio check, Freebird.” Oh no, I thought; but I had to respond: “Freebird, this is Serenada.” Freebird was a Nicat 38’ ketch, with a solo sailor, failed engine, and blown out foresails, coming in from Cape Verde, tired after 16 days at sea, needing assistance to come into harbour, but unable to contact the Coast Guard for help. Gil & I looked out, and just beyond the mouth of the harbour, we could see the ketch with blown out sails, hobby horsing in the big seas. I really felt for that captain. What to do? I offered to relay his message, and stand by. I wasn’t thinking the clearest, in hindsight. In the moment, I reasoned that because he had called the Coast Guard without a response; that the outcome would be no different if I called them (Wrong). So, what did I do? I called the Antigua Yacht Club on VHF CH68 and relayed the details above; they contacted ABSAR (Antigua Barbuda Search and Rescue); who called Freebird on VHF CH16. Radio communications between Freebird and ABSAR were difficult, and I had to relay for Freebird at least once. Eventually (it took longer for ABSAR to render assistance than I would have expected) ABSAR sent out a towing vessel, and brought Freebird safely into the harbour and on to a mooring ball.

Freebird being towed in to harbour by ABSAR

There are some good trails to explore on shore here. One we missed completing at our first visit here almost two years ago, was the Middle Ground Trail, which runs between Pigeon Beach and Fort Berkeley, and offers stunning views of English Harbour, as well as the opportunity to see the remains of an English Fort.